This past Wednesday night I decided to take a few of my fellow bloggers along to try out the new Fu Hao Bistro on Park Street in Five Points. When we entered we found a very modern, beautifully appointed dining room. It is a very calming and clean place with a Zen feel to it. The dining room is split into two parts, but it manages to feel very quiet and intimate.

We ordered several starters to share, beginning with the Coconut Shrimp ($7).

(Please excuse the poor quality of the photos as the restaurant is rather dark.)

I hate to give away one of the greatest highlights of the meal just as we begin, but the coconut shrimp were incredible. They were crispy and perfectly cooked with just the right amount of sweetness and coconut flavor. The sweet chili sauce completed the dish beautifully.

We also tried the Fried Peking Dumplings ($5).

These were well made, with tightly constructed wrappers and a firm filling. The filling wasn’t bad, but the soy ginger sauce was a necessity. The steamed dumplings ($5) were more of the same, as they are the same dumplings prepared in a different way. Not much in the filling was able to be identified by taste or texture but they were a good starter.

The wrappers themselves were rather doughy, so I preferred the fried to the steamed. I’ve had better dumplings in town at a smaller price but, especially with the sauce, they were satisfying.

Next we tried one of my all-time favorite dishes, the Harvest Spring Roll ($4).

Again, the wrappers themselves were prepared very nicely, with that satisfying crispy smash in my mouth, but the filling left a bit to be desired. They were not tasteless, but the filling did need more seasoning. The dish was greatly improved by the sweet chili sauce which is the same as that which came with our shrimp.

Next up was Tom Yum Soup for 2 (Chicken $8 – Shrimp $9). This is a Thai-style spicy soup with mushrooms, sweet peppers, onions, sweet Thai basil, Thai chili sauce and chicken broth. If you’re a fan of spicy dishes, this should be your first stop on the menu. It had a deliciously layered flavor profile. Each component could be discerned and enjoyed without difficulty. The dish is billed as being for two, but the bowl was so large that the waiter offered to bring us a third bowl to share.

Too often Tom Yum is a weak chicken broth and deflated mushy vegetables with so much chili sauce dumped in that it causes physical pain in one’s mouth – but not so with Fu Hao’s Tom Yum. I suspect other restaurants dial up the heat to cover the multitude of sins which lie within the bowl, but Fu Hao has this one right on the money.

After we had each shared our appetizers, we moved on to our main courses. One blogger ordered the Green Bean “health recipe” ($8). It is marked as both a vegetarian and spicy dish. The beans were dry sauteed with spices and served with a side of vegetables. There was also a beautiful flower completing the presentation.

I’m not sure that this dish is necessarily worth $8, but the green beans were very well cooked and seasoned properly. If you’re looking for a light meal as a vegetarian option, this is a good way to get a nice taste of Fu Hao’s style without the heaviness of a dumpling or noodle.

My other adventurous companion chose the Crispy Whole Fish (market price that day was $23).

This is a whole Red Snapper fried and served bathed in the “chef’s special sauce,” which seemed to be a sweet mild chili sauce. The presentation was breathtaking. The bird seen in the background is carved from a whole daikon radish. It is an impressive and stunning dish well worth the price in its intricacy.

(Please note the further carving work done on the body of the daikon and the bird’s tail and feathers – beautiful!)

The fish itself was a touch overcooked on the outer portions, but the inside seemed to be flaky and tender. Some of us believed that perhaps there was a bit too much sauce. However, the interior of the fish is not seasoned, so at least some sauce was necessary. Overall, a gorgeous dish, though we were disappointed that the server did not de-bone and serve the fish. It must be mentioned, however, that service like that often costs well over $40 in other restaurants. For that, we can manage on our own!

Finally, I had the Peking Duck ($18). It is described on the menu as “House prepared Peking duck served in the traditional Peking style.” I knew that for $18 I was not going to receive a full duck complete with head and feet. I can’t even get a raw duck at the grocery store for that price. Duck is one of my favorite dishes, so I still had to see what would come my way.

I am sad to report that the duck was a great disappointment. The duck flesh itself was overcooked and dry, while the skin was leathery and chewy. It resembled jerky rather than the expected crispy deliciousness - very upsetting. The vegetable flower and arranged duck was a beautiful presentation, but this is a very sad little pile of meat for $18.

Our server gave us and order of Xango ($6) next, though we had not ordered it. It wasn’t a mistake, just a gift from the kitchen, probably as a result of the restaurant closing up for the evening. Xango is a piece of cheesecake, chunks of banana and caramel rolled in pastry and fried, served with ice cream.

It was a lovely gesture, but I’m afraid that perhaps the dish had suffered from age-related issues. The fried bananas had gone mushy and the cheesecake had dried out quite a bit. The ice cream was unremarkable but enjoyable. I wouldn’t order this dish for myself, but it was a very nice gift from our server and we appreciated the sweet spot at the end of the meal.

I would like to return to Fu Hao to try some of the other menu items. They do seem to put great emphasis on presentation and they have really tasty appetizers in a pleasing atmosphere. Their menu includes many traditional favorites like Moo Goo Gai Pan, Shrimp with Lobster Sauce, Cashew Chicken or Shrimp and Kung Po Chicken for those not quite ready to look their meal in the (fried) eye. It would be a great place to take a date or have any romantic meal. Our “girls night” was a smashing success here, but larger or louder groups may feel uncomfortable in the quiet atmosphere. This would not be an especially good place to take children in the evening, though lunch could be a possibility.

Fu Hao attempts upscale Asian fusion with a classy atmosphere and an exceptionally friendly and patient staff. I recommend the restaurant with these caveats, but cannot recommend the duck. My suggestion would be to bring several friends and swap appetizers in the tapas style. I’ll be checking it out again as the restaurant finds its footing and hopefully establishes itself as a fixture on Park Street.

If you would like to visit Fu Hao Bistro, it is located in the old Abernathy Optician’s Shop building at 1001 Park Street, Jacksonville, Florida. Phone them at (904) 798-8686.

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all bad secretive cell phone photos copyright © 2009 by jodi a. kasten • all rights reserved